Creating spare parts using your 3D printer is an extremely useful skill. There are many different types of software available, both free and paid, to assist you in designing your parts. Here’s a list of some popular CAD software:

For the 3D printer I am useing for this tutorial it is a Kingroon KP3S which sells for $130. it is a very sturdy reliable 3D printer I highly recommend it for anyone getting into 3D printing.

Free CAD Software:

1. Tinkercad: Easy to learn with a simple interface, ideal for beginners.
2. FreeCAD: More complex with a steeper learning curve but offers extensive features.
3. Blender: Primarily used for 3D modeling and animation, but also suitable for CAD.

Paid CAD Software:

1. Autodesk Fusion 360: Widely used for professional and hobbyist applications, with a robust set of features.
2. SolidWorks: Industry-standard CAD software known for its powerful tools and precision.
3. SketchUp Pro: User-friendly with a variety of features, ideal for architectural design.

Each type of software has its pros and cons. Some, like Autodesk Tinkercad, have very easy learning curves, while others, like FreeCAD, take a bit longer to learn and have steeper learning curves.

Regardless of the software being used, the most important thing is to accurately identify the object you’re trying to duplicate.

In my case, I was making a duplicate of the battery lid cover on the back of my mouse.

For tasks like this, you need to take accurate measurements, preferably using a caliper. Calipers come in a wide variety. I am using a digital caliper, but there are also manual calipers that require reading a dial to determine the measurements of what you’re measuring.

There are pros and cons to using digital versus dial calipers. Digital calipers obviously use batteries, commonly 2032 coin batteries. Dial calipers do not need batteries but can be a bit harder to read and lack some of the functionality of digital calipers.

Once you get the measurements of the part you’re trying to duplicate, input them into your favorite CAD software. In my case, I’m using FreeCAD.

Try to get the dimensions as close as possible, as even a fraction of a millimeter off can make it so the part will not fit. Different CAD software will create the part differently.

Once it is finished, make sure to design your 3D models so they are not too thin and won’t snap off when used.

To prepare for printing, I use my Kingroon KP3S printer. The slicer I use is the standard Cura Slicer.

Using Cura 5.7.1, export the G-code. The G-code contains the instructions for the 3D printer to create the part.

Once the file is exported, it is sent to the printer, sometimes using an SD card or over USB.

Standard print settings for PLA are normally around 200°C for the hot end and 60°C for the build plate.

While printing, please be careful not to touch the hot end, as it can burn you.

After the print is finished, remove it from the plate and clean off any residual elephant foot or brim using a brim cutter. This type of cutter is specifically designed to cleanly remove the brim quickly and efficiently.

If all the measurements are correct, your part should fit and replace the original plastic part.

In some cases, post-processing such as using needle files or sandpaper may be needed.